Magic at Mile Marker 92

How a weekend visit became a lesson in doing it right!

A few weeks ago we decided to chill out, relax and support our local economy by spending a long weekend in the Keys. Now we all know that Key West is a wonderful place, but to be practical, it's a heck of a long drive on a Friday evening from where I live. So, instead, we opted for staying in a place mid-way to that southernmost point in the US.

I started my search for a place to stay with an ad that ran in the NY Times travel section that featured a variety of places in the vicinity of Islamorada. "That's it!" I thought, "we'll stay there and drive down to Key West the next day" (it's a civic duty for a southern Floridian to experience sunset at Mallory Pier at least once a year, no?) I browsed on the net for a while and then placed a few phone calls. One of the places I called was named the Coconut Palm Inn (subtitled, A Beachfront Hideaway.) There weren't many pictures on the website, but my intuition told me to call. When my intuition speaks, I listen.

The phone was answered by Kathy, whose voice was brimming with hospitality. I explained what I was looking for (reasonable, on the water, small, non-commercial, clean, not smelling like mold – I'm allergic.) Bubbling with enthusiasm Kathy told me about the place and a little of its recent history. A gentleman that she had worked for, for the last 20 years, had just purchased this inn and they were in the process of doing renovations and it was the *most incredible place.* Since I needed a little more than her word, she directed me to the previous owners website and stayed on the phone with me as we viewed the pictures and she explained to me what had changed. "We cleaned all the garbage out of the coconut grove and there is fine white sand and hammocks and beach chairs, it's bea-u-tiful, you will love it, I know it."

It didn't take long for me to realize that I was going to make reservations at the Inn solely on the basis of Kathy's enthusiasm and utter joy at working there. So I took a chance. It wasn't a well-known place, it wasn't a chain, but if it was what she said it was, it would fit the bill. (So soon after Sept 11, it seemed inappropriate to do something "fancy.") Plain, simple, serviceable was more in line with what my conscience would allow. And the price was nice. As a bonus it seemed I had made a new friend. I needed to go visit.

Just as described the place is terrific. I mean my personal taste would be to update some of the 20 year old style furniture that was in our room (it's just not quite old *enough* to be funky.) But the view! The intimate beachfront! The dock that overlooked the bay! The glorious sunset that greeted our arrival! The hammocks that no one else occupied! Who cares about the furniture. It was comfortable, clean and yes, serviceable. I found just the place I was looking for.

The main room of the Inn has a massive fireplace that was made by a local stone mason that used imprints of coral and real shells on the chimney that rises to the ceiling. The weekend we were there the furniture was just being moved into the main part of Inn – old brown leather couches and sturdy mahogany furniture. Made me happy to see them. Yes, I could see this place really shaping up!

But the part I really want to tell you about happened on Monday when we were due to check out. Not wanting the weekend to end too early, I stopped into the office Monday morning to ask if we could have a late check out and enjoy the beautiful beach day. Kathy took a very discreet look at her reservations book, and exclaimed with confidence, "For you, of course! How late would you like to stay?" "Into the afternoon?" I hesitated the question. "Sure ­ just give me a